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The RAW Edit section has a series of options, such as exposure compensation and White Balance that can be adjusted continuously. You can also undo single changes or revert back to the unedited state, as long as you haven't saved over it. When you select any of the editing options you're confronted with a before-and-after view of the edits you're about to make (you can elect to see just the edited preview if you prefer). The images themselves appear as thumbnails, which can be varied in size.ĭouble-clicking a thumbnail takes you to the edit screen, which includes standard editing options such as Brightness and Contrast, and less common ones such as Auto Tone Correction. The main screen shows either the directory or album/group structure on the left and the image metadata on the right.
#Olympus master sp55ouz owners manual software#
Olympus Studio currently costs €99/$99 which is only a little cheaper than some third-party software packages. In many respects the two pieces of software behave similarly but Studio gives you much greater control over the way the image is processed - particularly when working with RAW files. To escape being limited to these presets you can buy the fully-featured Olympus Studio. The advantage is that you can not only take more time to consider which filter will give the best results, but you can also avoid the delays and battery drain that Art Filters can induce when using them in the camera. The latest version of Master also allows Art Filters to be applied to RAW files after the event. This is still enough to get great results, but it's no more powerful than the camera's JPEG engine, which arguably doesn't make the most of having shot in RAW (it also can't save the barely compressed SHQ JPEGs that the camera will produce, if you really want it to).
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Beyond that, the options are limited to those presented in the camera, so you can adjust which Picture Mode setting is applied or tweak the image parameters such as sharpening and contrast but you get no more freedom than you had when you shot the image. It allows adjustment of exposure compensation and white balance, and allows the resizing and cropping of images.
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When it comes to RAW processing, Master is pretty limited in its scope. In addition to the relatively common options are a lens distortion correction option (which can be applied manually or automatically, based on the software's knowledge of each lenses characteristics), and Auto Tone Correction, which makes localized corrections to the image's tone response. If you want to make RAW-level edits, such as white balance or exposure compensation adjustments, you have to go via the RAW edit screens, output as a JPEG or TIFF, then work on that saved file in the edit window. The options, including contrast, curves and color tweaks, can also be added to RAW files, but are only applied when you save as a JPEG or TIFF file. The Edit window offers a series of image processing options, all of which are applied to the entire image. Beyond this file browser, there are two other key elements to the program - an edit window for making changes to JPEG files and a RAW edit section for applying different presets to RAW files. Master allows you to find your images either via your computer's directory structure or the date you took them, then add them to 'Albums.' These albums don't save your files to new locations, they simply allow you to associate, collect and arrange your images. We found ourselves using version 2.2 but it regularly checks for updates if you have an internet connection, so it's essentially academic which version ships with the camera. The E-P1 comes with the Olympus Master 2 image browser / editor software.